Hi all.. having modified the anf125 as my previous posts, it is now running an aftermarket exhaust and a free breathing foam air filter with no air box.
the bike runs ok, but the bottom end is a bit poor. I wondered had anyone fitted a replacement carb and done away with the ignition advance switch that is fitted to the original?
I have looked at raising the needle in the card as an experiment, but it seems it is not adjustable?
anf125 carburator
Re: anf125 carburator
Hi Phil 
,
to gain bottom Power for your MONGO you can change your Standard CDI
without Pre-Ignition to a CDI with Pre-Ignition and a Iridium Spark instead of raising the needle.
Look for Naraku (Taiwan) CDI's. You don't need a fine and expensive NCY.
The Cheaper Chinese ones @ 6 Dollar from aliexpress do the same Job.
Only expensive, free programmable CDI's (Ignitech) can go further.
All don't Include a Rev-Limiter too... this has nothing to do with Tuning if you
use it in a CUB, only if you use it in a REV-Limited Scooter...
There are 5-Pin Versions like in the Picture above with 1 Connector and 6-Pin Versions like in the Video with 2 Connectors...
Both in AC and DC Versions. For magnetic powered CDI's like in the Carb CUB's you need the AC Version.
The flywheel (magneto) powered Supply Coil delivers AC Current to your AC CDI.
This is why you can fire up your CUB with a empty Battery. Don't remove it for testing !!!
You can Harm a Lot in the Electronics of any Bike if you do. Only Good for your friendly Bike Dealer...
The Pre-Ignition CDI then delivers the stored Current to the High-Voltage Spark Ignition Coil depending
on the Engines Revs and the Ignition-Curve stored in it's Circuit.
The Brainless Standard CDI fires Late and much to Late at REV's under 5000 rpm.
DC CDi's are only for Bikes where the CDI is powered from the Battery.
There are Versions with adjustable Timing availabel.
A better High-Voltage Coil with 30000 Volts than 9000 Volts and a spark plug connector
without Resistor gains more nice smoothness at low Rev's to your Special CUB and
is the next Step...
You can make it Sound like a stationary Diesel-Engine... Umpf, Umpf, Umpf...
Not this, this little open Head Engine Alex (Hisunist) is watching,
is jet fuel kerosine powered at lowest Rev's...
Very Nice...
[bbvideo=1280,720]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beRK8SjXQA4[/bbvideo]
Don't use the so called Racing-CDI's in Alloy Cases that looks like
small Car-Audio Amps, there Timing is more for Powered Up CUB Takegawa Engines at 12 - 22 Horsepowers.
Anyway, please post some Details about the Original Innova Carb Carburetor, the Ignition advance Switch...
I got no Clue about this Switch.
Matt
,to gain bottom Power for your MONGO you can change your Standard CDI
without Pre-Ignition to a CDI with Pre-Ignition and a Iridium Spark instead of raising the needle.
Look for Naraku (Taiwan) CDI's. You don't need a fine and expensive NCY.
The Cheaper Chinese ones @ 6 Dollar from aliexpress do the same Job.
Only expensive, free programmable CDI's (Ignitech) can go further.
All don't Include a Rev-Limiter too... this has nothing to do with Tuning if you
use it in a CUB, only if you use it in a REV-Limited Scooter...
Both in AC and DC Versions. For magnetic powered CDI's like in the Carb CUB's you need the AC Version.
The flywheel (magneto) powered Supply Coil delivers AC Current to your AC CDI.
This is why you can fire up your CUB with a empty Battery. Don't remove it for testing !!!
You can Harm a Lot in the Electronics of any Bike if you do. Only Good for your friendly Bike Dealer...
The Pre-Ignition CDI then delivers the stored Current to the High-Voltage Spark Ignition Coil depending
on the Engines Revs and the Ignition-Curve stored in it's Circuit.
The Brainless Standard CDI fires Late and much to Late at REV's under 5000 rpm.
DC CDi's are only for Bikes where the CDI is powered from the Battery.
There are Versions with adjustable Timing availabel.
A better High-Voltage Coil with 30000 Volts than 9000 Volts and a spark plug connector
without Resistor gains more nice smoothness at low Rev's to your Special CUB and
is the next Step...
You can make it Sound like a stationary Diesel-Engine... Umpf, Umpf, Umpf...
Not this, this little open Head Engine Alex (Hisunist) is watching,
is jet fuel kerosine powered at lowest Rev's...
Very Nice...
Don't use the so called Racing-CDI's in Alloy Cases that looks like
small Car-Audio Amps, there Timing is more for Powered Up CUB Takegawa Engines at 12 - 22 Horsepowers.
Anyway, please post some Details about the Original Innova Carb Carburetor, the Ignition advance Switch...
I got no Clue about this Switch.
Matt